Stack Construction - the full
disclosure
Marking out the octagonal stack
base
made from more of that same steel
plate!
The stack bottom flange will be made smaller and
gusset pieces will later be brazed between it and the stack. The
upper strengthening hoop will be replaced with a simple flange version of the
same.
The tabs are cut - almost ready for
bending
I carved deep bending grooves with a
Dremel cut-off wheel
Well... that was
simple
As mentioned, the round bottom flange will
be made smaller
Joints silver brazed and the base
temporarily copper plated
It's plenty
strong!
Trimming the base in the
lathe
The pressure disk is just a piece of
scrap
Later the base's corner seams will
be filled with a lower-temperature
silver solder and it will be finished to
resemble stone or concrete
The stack top
flange
Cutting out strengthening
hoops
Drilling the bottom flange for the stack
mounting bolts or studs
Cutting a large rectangular breech opening near the base of a full size
steel stack can allow it to buckle under its own weight. To offset this,
two strengthening pieces are attached on each side of such an
opening.
I have even seen this in a large brick
chimney. To accomplish this easily in the model, I
simply attached the pieces to two of the hoops. They will later be
silver brazed to the stack.
Another view -
digital film is cheap :-)
You will see something similar to this on
every steel stack with side breeching
(the size exaggerated by the
camera)
The copper-plated steel stack after silver
brazing
I added a drain for stack
condensation (& rainwater!)
Inside view
(instead of the usual full-diameter funnel-shaped bottom, I will be
using
an angled bottom plate to direct any condensed water running down the stack walls to the
drain outlet)
(note the welded seam - further down the
page you will see a notch
in the middle brass ring of the economiser to accommodate
this seam)
The angled plate was silver-brazed in positionsoldered
Size reference
The economizer
The tubes cut for the economizer
This upper ring in this shot fits the inside diameter of the
stack
After brazing 12 tubes to the ring
Four more tubes in the centre will surround a single
central brass downcomer
The said inner four tubes
(the fifth central tube passes completely through the
bottom header/tank)
Bottom view of all the tubes brazed to the lower (cold)
header/tank
Overall view from below before the other tank is added
to the top
Curving a stainless steel sheet (to become a support
for the pipe connections)
Tank bottom cover attached
(bracket and inlet fixture in foreground)
Note above that the central outlet tube from the upper
(hot) tank is installed
(this tube does not actually touch the cold tank as it
passes coaxially through a short hollow stay)
The finished bottom assembly
(to avoid heat transfer I used stainless steel for the threaded hot
outlet and the bracket)
Here's an inverted close-up of the warm outlet tube
passing through the lower cold tank
The top tank's cone-shaped cover being
turned
The small round baffle surrounding the downcomer
might help equalize the flow through the other tubes
The completed apparatus with top hoisting
hook
(Well....almost
complete - there will be a sheet wrapped around the tubes
covering the lower half of the upper section
above the middle ring)
Outdoor view proving our grass did
turn green in May of that year
Stainless steel nipples support the entire economizer
unit inside the stack
Trial fitting
Hoisting 'er down
Eventually insulating washers will be used on the hot
outlet (lower) nipple
Here's what the boiler flue gasses see as they enter the stack breech from the boiler
I think the full-size version
("Economite") is a monotube arrangement - one continuous run of pipe, folded
many times to fit into a reasonable section of stack.
In my unit, the flue gases enter from
the side and, due to the middle ring closing off the stack around its
circumference, the gases are forced to stay within the central area of the nest of
tubes until they pass the top of the encompassing copper shroud.
The top conical tank is smaller in diameter than the
stack by a respectable amount - allowing the gases to exit around its periphery.
(the shroud is crudely sketched into this
photo, as I haven't attached an actual copper sheet yet)
Note the tiny bit of space around the bottom of the shroud - it
will allow condensation to run down to the bottom of the stack and out the drain.
I gave the boiler plant its first overall coat of paint. This
was just to eliminate visual distractions so I can prepare the surfaces for
final finishing. I'm not going nuts over the degree of finish
quality, I just want it to be uniform - this is intended to be a
workhorse boiler.
Clad in high temperature aluminum
undercoat
I will probably make imitation manhole assemblies and push them in the
holes where the drum heads are exposed
Obviously most of the boiler front will be obscured by the
burner and the fittings
I'm still not sure about final colours
....
There are lots of ugly spots, but from the beginning this
thing was never expected to look good - only an old workshop boiler to be ready
for testing engines.
At this point (mid-June 2009) seven months of construction
time have been put into this boiler.